Bolting in Ulassai

When you visit Ulassai for the very first time, you will soon realize the immense potential for new lines. Every day new lines are popping up ready to be tried and sent. Bolting in Ulassai is where climbing in Ulassai starts.

What to use

Climbing Ulassai association bolts only with Inox 316L glue-in bolts. Although expansion bolts are good  in certain types of rock, their lifespan is shorter then a glue-in bolt. Never use Inox of a lower grade then 316L!

Premeasurements

We are closely working together with local government. Always get in contact with us first before you start bolting. Many rock faces are on private territory!

Make sure you fully understand the process of bolting. Know that the lives of many climbers are in your hands! If you are not sure about something, ask our advice. Better safe then sorry.

Clean your lines! When opening a line make sure that ALL loose rock is gone. Double check everything. Clean away dirt, plants and trees if necessary.

There is a thin line between over-bolting and under-bolting (ego-bolting is just lame), make sure that it is NEVER dangerous. Think about the bolt placements, don’t just start drilling holes. First you put tick marks, test clipping positions and route flow.

When you want to do the first ascent of your line, put a piece of rope in the first bolt. After 6 months, the new line is open for everyone.

If you want to know more about bolting in Ulassai, contact us and we’ll be glad to help.

Grading and First ascents

Quite a few lines only have 1 or 2 ascents, so the grade is still subjective in the new sectors. If you feel like a grade is completely wrong, don’t hesitate to contact us. If you did a first ascent of a line, please contact us with your name and the proposed grade. History is only written once.

♥ Pictures by Onza aka Jan Novak. Have a look on his website for more of his professional work.