Bolting in Ulassai
When you visit Ulassai for the very first time, you will soon realize the immense potential for new lines. Every day new lines are popping up ready to be tried and sent.
What to use
Nannai bolts only with Inox 316L glue-in bolts. Although expansion bolts are good in certain types of rock, their lifespan is shorter then a glue-in bolt. Never use Inox of a lower grade then 316L!
Make sure you fully understand the process of bolting. Know that the lives of many climbers are in your hands! If you are not sure about something, ask our advice. Better safe then sorry.
Clean your lines! When opening a line make sure that ALL loose rock is gone. Double check everything. Clean away dirt, plants and trees if necessary.
Their is a thin line between over-bolting and under-bolting (ego-bolting is just lame), make sure that it is NEVER dangerous. Think about the bolt placements, don’t just start drilling holes. First you put tick marks, test clipping positions and route flow.
When you want to do the first ascent of your line, put a piece of rope in the first bolt. After 6 months, the new line is open for everyone.
Share your efforts and achievements. Let us know where you’ve bolted.
Grading and First ascents
Quite a few lines only have 1 or 2 ascents, so the grade is still subjective in the new sectors. If you feel like a grade is completely wrong, don’t hesitate to contact us. If you did a first ascent of a line, please contact us with your name and the proposed grade. History is only written once.
♥ Pictures by Onza aka Jan Novak. Have a look on his website for more of his professional work.